The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council

MARKET WATCH 21 APRIL, 2023

NATIONAL

 

INTERNATIONAL

Ministry of Textile to organise Chintan Shivir with industry stakeholders on 21-22 April 2023 at Rajkot

The Ministry of Textiles has organised an exhibition of handloom and handicraft at Somnath and Dwarka, showcasing the exquisite range of handloom and handicraft from the States of Tamil Nadu and Gujarat. The Ministry is also organizing a Chintan Shivir with Textile Industry stakeholders on 21-22 April 2023 at Rajkot, to discuss and deliberate upon various important agendas and topical issues pertaining to the textile industry The activities are a part of “Saurashtra Tamil Sangamam”. The 'Saurashtra Tamil Sangamam' is organized in close coordination between Central and State Government of Gujarat, supported by various institutions and ministries including the Ministry of Textiles. The Chintan Shivir program spread over 2 days shall include 2 expert discussions on (a) exploring opportunities for India in Technical Textile with focus on Home-Tech and Cloth-Tech products and (b) Roadmap for Sustainability & Circularity on 21st April 2023. Textile Advisory Group (TAG) meetings on cotton and man-made fibres are planned to take place in the afternoon of 22nd April 2023, followed up with Soft Launch of ecommerce portal of Handloom & Handicraft products. A population of around 13 lakh Saurashtrian people currently settled in 47 cities/ towns of Tamil Nadu trace their origins to the Gujarat State. The historical accounts mention that the Saurashtrian people, highly adept in variety of tasks in addition to weaving,migrated to Madurai and other cities of the State in large numbers some 400 years ago, owing to upheavals caused by external invasions. The objective of Saurashtra Tamil Sangamam (STS) organized through various programmes at Somnath, Dwarka and Statue of Unity (Gujarat), during the month of April 2023, is to promote age-old ties and cultural linkages between Saurashtra and Tamil Nadu. The STS is another important milestone event added to the series of events conducted under the Government of India’s ‘Ek Bharat Shreshtha Bharat’ (EBSB) initiative. The EBSB initiative, guided by the vision of Hon’ble Prime Minister of India Shri Narendra Modi, aims to enhance interaction & promote mutual understanding between people of different States/UTs through the concept of State/UTs pairing. The paired States/UTs carry out engagements with one another in multiple spheres including language, literature, cuisine, festivals, cultural events, tourism, among others. The Saurashtra Tamil Sangamam is in perfect continuity to the Kashi Tamil Samgamam that took place last year at Varanasi, wherein our Hon’ble Prime Minister, Shri Narendra Modi, reiterated that “Our resolutions in ‘Amrit Kaal’ will be fulfilled by the unity and collective efforts of the whole country” and emphasised on furthering the positive outcomes brought by Kashi Tamil Sangam. The 'Saurashtra Tamil Sangamam' initiative aims to promote the rich cultural heritage of the Saurashtra community living in Tamil Nadu. It will provide a platform for Saurashtrians in Tamil Nadu to connect with their brethren in Gujarat and celebrate their shared traditions and values.

Source: PIB

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PLIs working their magic in boosting manufacturing

 Can India’s push to the PLI scheme transform the economy, especially the manufacturing sector, as the special economic zone did for China, by also contributing 60% of its exports? This question has been doing the rounds ever since this scheme came into being around three years earlier. But now results are for all to see, as to how this scheme is transforming the manufacturing sector, which possesses the highest potential to offer employments. Thanks to the PLI scheme, only recently, electronics has become India’s fastest-growing export for the 11-month period from April 2022 to February 2023 and smartphones constitute a substantial portion of this remarkable result. Propelled by these encouraging results, India has now set a target to achieve $ 120 billion export of electronics by 2025-26 and $ 300 billion electronic production by 2026. Whereas, earlier, we were known to ‘import’ huge number of smartphones and other electronic items, also widening our trade imbalances and current account deficit. The production of mobile phones has risen from about 6 crore in 2014-15 to approximately 31 crore in 2021-22, and it is expected to contribute nearly 50% of the total electronics www.citiindia.org 10 CITI-NEWS LETTER exports by 2024. Government data shows that electronics exports were up 61.57% in rupee terms during the period, crossing $ 20 billion mark. In the very first year of the PLI scheme for this sector in 2022, electronics exports grew by 40.5% and the momentum is a delight to watch. Now, the scheme is expected to encourage domestic and local productions to the tune of Rs. 30 lakh crore over the next 4-5 years, boosting economic growth and amplifying exports. It is also expected to generate around 60 lakh employment opportunities, especially micro jobs in coming few years as most of the 14 sectors covered under the PLI scheme, are labour-intensive, such as textiles, food processing, which could help the country overcome the job crunch. Moreover, amid supply chain crisis, the scheme does help to strengthen the domestic manufacturing ecosystem to make the country being more resilient to massive supply chain disruptions, caused by events like COVID pandemic, followed by Russia-Ukraine conflict. In the meantime, there is also a shift in global value chains in recent years, which is undergoing deep tectonic irreversible changes, that also needs to be addressed. This scheme has substantially helped various sectors in the economic and industrial recovery post Covid. Positive industry feedbacks are galore about the scheme as textile, automotive, white goods and others have started giving a good sign of growth. For example, inspired by the scheme, India now wants to double its exports of auto components to $ 30 billion by 2026, which is presently just $ 15 billion, when the present global auto component trade hovers around $ 1.3 trillion. Without doubt, PLI schemes have enhanced the competitiveness of the manufacturing sector, and are helping leverage the untapped potential of industries to fulfill the vision of an Atmanirbhar Bharat. Industries coming under it are also reducing their logistics costs to make the production processes and goods competitive in global markets by reducing procedural disabilities. From a geo-economic lens also, it aims to position India as an alternative manufacturing hub to China. Now, with PLI schemes generating desired results, India’s long cherished dream to emerge as a manufacturing power on global horizon, can come true. At the same time, India also needs to identify the emerging challenges that are to be met and the strategies that are to be adopted to realize this dream.

Source: News on Air

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Poly spun & PC yarn prices steady in India; export orders low

The prices of polyester-cotton (PC) and poly spun yarn in India remained stable as the weaving industry was inactive in terms of fresh buying. While export-oriented production activities may pick up by the end of April, buyers were not enthusiastic about prospective buying due to weaker orders. Traders have stated that the new season's export orders are not encouraging. Reliance Industries Limited has increased the price of polyester fibre by ₹2 to ₹110 per kg. In the Surat market of Gujarat, sluggish demand was noted, but prices were stable at previous levels. The 30 count poly spun yarn was traded at ₹142-143 per kg (GST extra) and the 40 count poly spun yarn was traded at ₹158-159 per kg. “The demand from the weaving industry remained very poor, and buyers were reluctant to book fresh deals without being assured of fabric demand. Yarn prices would get a boost if buying improved. The implementation of the Quality Control Order (QCO) failed to fuel the prices and could disrupt supplies in the domestic market,” a trader from Surat told Fibre2Fashion. The Ludhiana market also noted stability in PC and polyester spun yarn prices, and export-oriented garment production activities may begin for the winter season by the end of the current month. However, export orders are not encouraging. “Low orders have discouraged buyers from purchasing raw materials. If new orders improve, the prices of yarn and fabric can get support, but it is not going to happen in the near future,” a Ludhiana-based trader told F2F. The import of PC and poly spun yarn from China is also eating into the demand for the upstream industry. In the Ludhiana market, the 30 count poly spun yarn was priced at ₹155-163 per kg (GST inclusive). The 30 count PC combed yarn (48/52) was sold steadily at ₹220-230 per kg (GST inclusive), and the 30 count PC carded yarn (65/35) was stable at ₹202-212 per kg. Recycled polyester fibre (PET bottle fibre) was noted at ₹77-80 per kg, according to Fibre2Fashion’s market insight tool TexPro. Reliance has increased the prices of polyester staple fibre by ₹2 to ₹110 per kg for the current fortnight. North Indian cotton prices strengthened as they followed the uptrend of domestic cotton futures. Cotton prices were quoted ₹20-40 per maund of 37.2 kg higher than the previous closing prices. Trade sources have said that the spot market found support from cotton futures, which were noted to be up in MCX. MNCs were specifically active buyers as they had to procure to fulfil their commitment for supplies. Cotton arrival was limited to 7,000 bales of 170 kg in north India, and it was traded at ₹6,300-6,400 per maund in Punjab, ₹6,350-6,450 per maund in Haryana, and ₹6,550-6,650 per maund in upper Rajasthan, and at ₹61,200-63,000 per candy of 356 kg in lower Rajasthan.

Source: Fibre2Fashion

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India, Russia engage in FTA Talks involving the Eurasian Economic Union

India and Russia are engaging in discussions to for a free trade agreement (FTA) involving the Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU), leaders of both the nations said on April 17th. Russian deputy prime minister Denis Manturov, who is also the Trade and Industry Minister of Russia, had arrived in New Delhi on Monday to co-chair the Intergovernmental Russian-Indian commission, which aims to strengthen trade ties between the two nations. During the Dialogue, which was hosted by the Federation of Indian Chambers of Commerce and Industry (FICCI), Denis Manturov and Indian External Affairs Minister Dr. S. Jaishankar spoke and conveyed that they have entered “advanced negotiations” over an FTA, in order to form closer economic ties. “We pay special attention to the issues of mutual access of production to the markets of our countries. Together with the Eurasian Economic Commission we are looking forward to intensifying negotiations on a free trade agreement with India,” said Russian Trade Minister Denis Manturov, referring to the executive body of the EAEU. Trade preferences and a mechanism that guarantees protection of investments “will be in demand among Russian and Indian businessmen”, added Manturov. Dr. S. Jaishankar further conveyed that FTA talks between India and Russian-led Eurasian Economic Union were hampered by the Covid pandemic. He said that Indian external affairs ministry is in favour of resumption of talks because the proposed pact “will make a real difference to trade relationship”. EAM also mentioned how India and Russia have already met their bilateral trade target of $30 billion before the target year of 2025. He further stated that the increase in twoway trade between Apr 2022 – Feb 2023 to $45 billion has given rise to “understandable concern” about trade imbalance. “We need to work together with our Russian friends on a very urgent basis on how to address that imbalance. And addressing that imbalance really means addressing the impediments — whether they are market access impediments, whether they are non-tariff barriers, whether they are related to payments or to logistics,” said EAM Jaishankar. Both sides can diversify and expand in terms of goods by exploring trade possibilities in automobiles and spare parts, electronics items, medical equipment, textiles, food and agricultural items and solar photovoltaic modules, EAM Jaishankar said. Indian Commerce minister Piyush Goyal also met Denis Manturov and discussed various issues concerning trade and commerce, according to media reports. The Russia-led Eurasian Economic Union (EAEU or EEU) is an economic union of few post-Soviet states located in Eurasia. The five-member Union comprises Russia, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Armenia and Belarus. According to reports, a joint statement to launch FTA negotiations between India and EAEU was signed in June 2017.

Source: Fibre2Fashion

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Indian economy likely to grow at 6% in FY24: Economists

India's economy is predicted to grow at a resilient rate of 6% in FY24, slightly easing from 7% in FY23, according to a poll of 20 economists. Despite the slowdown, India will remain the fastest-growing major economy. India's growth is expected to bounce back to 6.5% in FY25. The poll also suggested that inflation will fall within RBI's inflation target band of 2-6% to 5.3% in FY24, which will also support demand. The poll's forecasts ranged from 5.2% to 6.3% with a median estimate of 6%. India's economy is likely to post a resilient 6% growth in FY24, an ET poll of 20 economists showed, easing slightly from 7% in FY23 because of softer global growth and higher interestrates. The poll forecasts ranged from 5.2% to 6.3% with a median estimate of 6%. Despite the moderation, India will remain the fastest-growing major economy.

Source: Times of India

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India’s economy signals resilience even as exports dim outlook

India's economy stayed strong in March despite declining exports and rising unemployment. Bloomberg's activity tracker, which follows eight high-frequency indicators, showed that India's economy remained stable during the month. The Reserve Bank of India has paused rates for the first time in months in order to assess the impact of higher interest rates on economic activity. While the readings are positive, concerns remain due to a slowdown in demand for manufacturing goods and services. Additionally, the unemployment rate has increased to 7.8% India’s economic activity stayed resilient in March though the weakening pace of exports and an increase in unemployment dimmed the outlook for the country that’s surpassing China as the most populous nation. While the needle on a dial measuring the so-called Animal Spirits was unchanged at 5 for a third straight month, a jump in collections from taxes levied on consumption showed Asia’s third largest economy was ticking along. That’s the reading from the overall activity tracker comprising of eight high-frequency indicators compiled by Bloomberg. The readings come in the backdrop of the Reserve Bank ofIndia pausing rates for the first time since May to evaluate the impact of 250 basis points in rate increases so far and to support growth. Retail and wholesale price-gains have eased on still-elevated rates, spurring calls for a longer pause. Last week, India’s Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman said her government was making “enough efforts” to ensure the economy stays buoyant though she expressed concern over the OPEC+ output cut and impact of decisions related to Russia’s war in Ukraine. Weakness in demand for manufacturing goods and services activity could be a drag on India’s recovery, she added. Here are more details from the animal spirits barometer, which uses a three-month weighted average to smooth out volatility in single-month readings: Business activity Purchasing managers’ surveys showed manufacturing activity improved as pressure on supply chains eased on increased raw materials availability. Activity in services sector moderated in March from a 12-year high in the previous month, bringing the composite index down to 58.4 from 59 in February. “A sizable proportion of services firms hiked their selling prices to hedge against rising costs,” said Pollyanna De Lima, economics associate director at S&P Global Market Intelligence. Exports Exports dropped 13.9% in March, declining for a fourth straight month, while imports fell 7.90% from a year ago. “Headwinds from a slowing global economy are beginning to weigh more on exports,” said Rahul Bajoria, economist at Barclays Plc. Electronics exports gained traction, rising 57% in March from a year ago as major mobile equipment manufacturers are setting up production units in India with the China-plus-one strategy gaining ground, he said. Apple Inc. now makes almost 7% of its iPhones in India and opened company-owned stores this week in the South Asian country to push retail sales. Consumer activity Liquidity in the banking system swung to a surplus in March, while credit growth moderated to 15%, from 15.52% in February, central bank data showed. Goods and services tax collections, which help measure consumption in the economy, rose 13% from a year earlier to 1.60 trillion rupees ($19.5 billion) in March — the second-highest level in the history of the six-year-old levy. New vehicle registrations slowed to 14% in the month from a 16% increase in February, according to data from the Federation of Automobile Dealers Associations. Yet passenger vehicle sales growth improved to 14.42% year-onyear, from 10.9% rise a month ago. Market sentiment Electricity consumption, a widely used indicator to measure demand in the industrial and manufacturing sectors, has moderated. Peak demand in March fell to 170 gigawatt from 181 gigawatt a month ago and soaring temperatures across India could well increase power consumption in the months to come. The unemployment rate climbed to 7.80%, from 7.45% a month ago, according to data from the Centre for Monitoring Indian Economy Pvt, as companies tightened purse strings after the festive season.

Source: Economic Times

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Support weaving community to transform their lives: Odisha CM Patnaik tells new recruits in govt department

Odisha Chief Minister Naveen Patnaik virtually welcomed over 30 newly recruited officers who joined the state Handloom, Textiles and Handicrafts Department, and said that they that have come through a fair and transparent process under the 5-T framework of governance. disha Chief Minister Naveen Patnaik virtually welcomed over 30 newly recruited officers who joined the state Handloom, Textiles and Handicrafts Department, and said that they that have come through a fair and transparent process under the 5-T framework of governance. As per an official statement, as many as 32 officers on Tuesday joined the Handloom, Textiles and Handicrafts Department. While 26 of them joined as Inspectors of textiles, 6 have been recruited as auditors. An orientation was organized at the Lok Seva Bhawan Convention Centre for the new recruits, "I hope as key players in the implementation of these schemes, you will actively support the weaving community in bringing about transformation in their lives," he said. The statement said that the Chief Minister expected the new officers to work sincerely and dedicatedly with a true sense of commitment and contribute to the development of the state for the wellbeing of the weavers. Speaking about the significance of the handloom sector, he said that Handloom is a vital sector in providing livelihood support for rural people and improving their economic status and that his government will make efforts to make the lives of weavers more comfortable, increase their income and bring smiles to their faces. Highlighting the initiatives taken up by his government for the sector, he said that the Government has implemented many innovative schemes for the economic development of people engaged in this sector. "Construction of work-shed cum houses, Boyan Jyoti Yojana, supply of improved looms and accessories, capacity building training and exposure visits of weavers to established Handloom clusters for knowledge acquisition, the concretization of loom pits and Baristha Bunakar Sahayata Yojana and many more schemes have been put in place making a remarkable impact on the lives of people in this sector," he said. Handloom, Textile and Handicrafts Minister Reeta Sahoo said that the handloom sector is making impressive progress under the leadership of CM Patnaik. "The weavers and handicrafts artisans are our pride, she added. The new officers should work towards the welfare of these people with commitment," she advised. Speaking on the occasion Chief Secretary PK Jena said, "Our handloom and handicrafts are hugely popular and considered premium products outside Odisha. The new officers should ensure that the programmes reach the weaving community. They should encourage youngsters to take up this profession with the use of technology, and modern designs, he called upon the new recruits."

Source: Dev Discourse

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New challenges emerge as fashion continues to change

Fashion is always changing, whether it’s due to political movements or influences from other environments. Both here at the university and across the globe, people are constantly reckoning with what it means to be fashionable in their cultural context. Fashion at the university At the university, the fashion style is often casual. Students can be seen in pajamas, sweatpants and Uggs. The busy lifestyle of students who often juggle work, class and leisure can make casual clothing more convenient. Additionally, the general American fashion further promotes the casual style with its focus on a cool, relaxed look, according to TIME. “It’s definitely more casual,” Jilian Orelano, a sophomore health behavior science major, says of the style at the university. “Especially going to class in the winter in sweatpants, sweatshirts and leggings. But I don’t know if there is a specific style, necessarily.” After I spoke with university students, I discovered that the style at the university often takes influence from neighboring states. New York City, one of the biggest fashion capitals in the world, often affects students’ clothing choices, from their everyday to going-out outfits. “I definitely feel like we have a Northern style,” Daria Brennock, a senior at the university, says. “There’s lots of New York City influence because there are a lot of New Yorkers here and people from New Jersey.” Fashion as a political statement Kedron Thomas, a cultural anthropologist and associate professor at the university, says that style doesn’t just encompass what people wear but also can be tied to political statements. For instance, punk fashion is a style that is heavily tied to societal dissatisfaction and was developed in the 1970s on the streets of London. Thomas details that low-income youth showcased their dissatisfaction with the economic and political climate in Britain at the time through the use of torn clothing and body piercings. “Within the norms and values, they [youth] develop different ways of dressing that are really creative, innovative and challenging,” Thomas says. Thomas mentioned the importance of the Afro in regard to using fashion as a tool for challenging social expectations. The Black is Beautiful movement was created in the 1960s and embraced African American hairstyles, including the Afro. The Afro was not only a hairstyle, but it became a symbol for pride and activism. Thomas says that these styles often become a source of inspiration for fashion designers. The fashion industry works by copying styles, often ones that emerge on the streets. Fashion as a social symbol Thomas says designers also copy brand name fashion as well, producing knockoff textiles. This includes unauthorized production of the Nike symbol on T-shirts and shoes or the Gucci logo with its iconic red and green coloring on handbags. Additionally, fast fashion companies like SHEIN function by mass producing knockoffs of current fashion trends. “The knockoff market has grown exponentially over the last three decades and this is true around the world,” Thomas says Thomas conducts research on traditional textiles in Central America, specifically in Guatemala. While Guatemalans have been developing unique forms of weaving textiles for around a thousand years, there is now an increase of knockoff clothing in the country that does not use traditional weaving practices. “One of the things that stood out for me as a graduate student spending time in Guatemala, was the prevalence of knockoffs,” Thomas says. “These are clothing items that feature brand names or logos of fashion brands and that are globally popular. But these are not authorized productions of those brands and logos.” She conducted research to find out why there was such a high volume of knockoff clothing in Guatemala. “It turns out that people in different parts of the world have different ideas about what brands are and what they mean, and why they’re important or maybe not so important,” Thomas says. “In my research on fashion branding in Central America, I found that brands are treated like part of what makes clothing stylish, or what makes it fashionable. And the brand name or the logo is really understood as part of the garment.” Thomas further explains that brand names or logos, whether they are knockoffs or not, are as much a part of the garment as the color, quality and design. In the U.S., authorized brands are viewed as what makes the garment special. They provide a sort of status label and define the garment more than its material or design. The rise in popularity of knockoffs in Guatemala is sparking conversations in the country about the future of traditional dress, according to Thomas. For some Guatemalans, many of whom are indigenous Maya people, participating in traditional dress is important in their culture. “Everybody thinks about, how do I want to dress?” Thomas says. “How do I want to express who I am? How do I want to express what communities I consider myself to be a part of? But for indigenous Maya people, that question has very serious political stakes. It has just a lot of significance in their community because if you wear traditional dress, you are making yourself available to discrimination.” Problems relating to discrimination based on fashion do not just occur in Guatemala, according to Thomas, they persist across the globe and continue to be seen in the U.S.. She gave the example of school dress codes. Through dress codes, women’s bodies are often surveilled to a higher degree than those presenting as male, making women more susceptible to violence and discrimination. It raises the stakes for women and makes the question of what to wear more difficult, says Thomas. “I feel like sometimes, depending on the setting, like a more party setting, you kind of feel like people will want [you] to show more skin,” Orelano says of choosing what to wear as a woman. “I just don’t really want to do that. I just want to wear what I want.”

Source: Ud Review

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Vietnam to hike green economy's contribution to GDP to $300 bn by 2050

Vietnam has set a target of raising its green economy's contribution to its gross domestic product (GDP) from $6.7 billion in 2020 to $300 billion by 2050 through drastic and breakthrough steps, minister of planning and investment Nguyen Chi Dung has said. Vietnam considers green growth as a long-term option to ensure balance and harmonise the goal of reducing greenhouse gas emissions and grow its economy, Dung told a recent conference in Hanoi, titled ‘Promoting green growth in Vietnam: Roadmap to Success’. The ministry, as the national coordinator for green growth, had advised the prime minister to issue the National Strategy on Green Growth for the 2021-2030 period, with a vision till 2050 and the National Action Plan on Green Growth for the period 2021- 2030. At the conference, Boston Consulting Group (BCG) general director Jaime Ruiz-Cabrero put forward four recommendations for Vietnam: the need to perfect green strategic institutions and step up building a legal framework; strengthening construction of a stable green financial system; helping reduce investment capital costs and develop the grid infrastructure system; create a foundation for the development of clean and renewable energy sources; and accelerate the development of clean hydrogen ecosystems. BCG’s research results showed that Vietnam has immense opportunity to transform, catch up and take shortcuts and be ready for a leap in economic, social and environmental development, a news agency reported. Preliminary BCG research results show that to accelerate green growth, the transition of the wind and solar power industries alone can contribute $70-80 billion to the GDP and directly create about 90,000-105,000 jobs.

Source: Fibre 2 Fashion

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Nigeria's textile imports rise 100.3% in 2 years to N365.5 bn in 2022

• In spite of efforts by the Nigerian government to revive the textile sector, import of textiles and textile products more than doubled in two years, rising by 100.3 per cent to N365.5 billion in 2022—the highest in at least 15 years—from N182.5 billion in 2020, government data showed. • The country's high production cost discourages investments in factories. In spite of efforts by the Nigerian government to revive the textile sector, import of textiles and textile products more than doubled in two years, rising by 100.3 per cent to N365.5 billion in 2022—the highest in at least 15 years—from N182.5 billion in 2020, according to data from the National Bureau of Statistics (NBS). The last time the textile, apparel and footwear sector recorded a positive growth was in 2018, data indicates. Since then, the government, through the Central Bank of Nigeria (CBN), has rolled out several intervention programmes, including financial support, training and foreign exchange restrictions for all forms of textile materials, to reduce import of textiles products. “The CBN has not implemented what they planned to do three years ago because people are still importing even more than before. And with this surge in imports, how do we prepare to reap the benefits of the African Continental Free Trade Area agreement?” Hamma Kwajaffa, director general of Nigerian Textile Manufacturers Association, told a Nigerian media outlet. The central bank wanted to spur up foreign investments by freezing the accounts of importers to force them to set up domestic factories rather than importing, but the country’s high cost of production discourages such investments, he added.

Source: Fibre 2 Fashion

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Opportunities for trends, innovations in fashion and textiles

According to the "Textile Industry Data Book, 2023 – 2030," published by Grand View Research, the global textile industry size reached US$1.7trn in 2022 and is expected to witness an upward growth trajectory due to the rising footprint of retail outlets and supermarkets. The report shows that adopting data analytics, AI, IoT and 3D technologies has redefined clothing production, with 3D printing technology gaining ground to minimise waste and bolster sustainability. Concerted efforts toward enhanced modern tool kits could boost the visibility of fashion and household textiles. The demand for low-cost clothing has prompted brands to inject funds into a high volume of synthetic and sustainable garments. Temperature-sensitive clothes have received uptake to help regulate internal temperature and negate the requirement for myriad outfits for various seasons. Temperature-responsive garments are poised to boost sustainability in the apparel sector. In accordance with the report, fashion brands are furthering their efforts on environmental goals with bullish efforts to reduce plastic waste and amp up plant-based technologies for fabrics. The demand for vegan leather has led to a paradigm shift in fashion production, with leading brands emphasising making apparel with an environmentally friendly approach. Since most plant-based materials are produced in labs, these garments have been touted as cruelty-free, fostering the vegan fashion trend. Textile manufacturers have upped investments in recyclable fabrics and sustainable packaging to bolster their environmental profile. The report mentions that technical textiles will likely witness bullish investments with heightened demand for durability and strength from the automotive, construction, marine and aerospace industries. The Europe market is expected to witness investment galore in bio-based polyester and fashion textiles. As stated, Asia Pacific’s textile industry share will be pronounced with buoyant investments in garments and apparel across China, India, and Bangladesh. Some factors, such as cheap labour, advanced infrastructure, and a smooth supply chain, encourage investors to infuse funds into the region. For instance, in October 2021, it was reported that Bangladesh would be receiving US$2.5bn from textile factory owners to keep up with the soaring demand and augment production capacity. Moreover, 2.5 million spindles are expected to be installed in the country. Furthermore, strong penetration of digitisation has propelled the e-commerce footprint across emerging economies, a trend likely to continue in the ensuing period. Textile manufacturers and other stakeholders will likely emphasise organic and inorganic strategies, including technological advancements, innovations, product offerings, R&D activities, and mergers & acquisitions. Stakeholders are expected to prioritise the following trends and opportunities to tap into the global market: • Textile manufacturers should prioritise investments in recyclable fabrics, sustainable packaging, and product recycling to bolster environmental profiles. To illustrate, in January 2022, Levi’s introduced circular 501 jeans made from organic cotton and recycled materials. • Technical textiles are expected to see increased investment, especially from the automotive, construction, marine, and aerospace industries. • The European market is expected to focus on bio-based polyester and fashion textiles due to the rising concerns of plastic pollution.

Source: Just Style

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China's industrial output up 3.9% YoY in Mar 2023, lower than expected

China’s industrial output rose by 3.9 per cent year-on-year (YoY) in March 2023, as per the National Bureau of Statistics (NBS). While the data indicates an improvement in the country’s post-COVID economic recovery, it fell slightly short of expectations. The valueadded industrial output rose by 3 per cent in the first quarter (Q1) of 2023, marking a 0.3 percentage point increase from the previous quarter. Overall improvements have been observed in business expectations, along with a steady recovery of China's industrial production during Q1 2023. The gauge for measuring the activity of large enterprises with an annual main business turnover of at least 20 million yuan (equivalent to around $2.91 million) is industrial output measurement. Retail sales in China surpassed expectations by a significant margin, registering a growth of 10.6 per cent, which is faster than the 3.5 per cent increase observed during JanuaryFebruary. In contrast to the anticipated 5.7 per cent rise, the YoY growth of fixed asset investment from January to March decelerated to 5.1 per cent. It had grown by 5.5 per cent in the January-February period. Chinese policymakers have pledged to provide support for the world’s second-largest economy this year after lifting COVID-19 curbs in December. The country has made progress in its economic recovery, with industrial output and retail sales improving, but policymakers will need to closely monitor fixed asset investment to maintain economic stability, local media reports said.

Source: Fibre 2 Fashion

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Europe's secret dyeing formula

In Central Europe, a rare, centuries-old practice has influenced the language, dress and culture of several nations. Wearing all-blue attire – blue jeans, blue vest, an indigo blue-and-white patterned shirt and a blue apron – Josef Koó opened the doors to his workshop, Original Blaudruck Koó, in Austria's easternmost Burgenland state, a sparsely populated region known for its vast sky and lake landscapes along the Hungarian border. A third-generation craftsman, Koó and his wife, Miriam, run one of Austria's two remaining indigo blueprinting workshops. Once commonplace, this rare, centuries-old practice nearly disappeared, but is now experiencing a resurgence. Called Blaudruck ("blueprint" or "blue-dyeing") in Austria and Germany (and Kékfestés, Modrotlač and Modrotisk in Hungary, Slovakia and the Czech Republic, respectively, where it is also practiced), the name refers to the process of printing a dyeresist paste called Papp onto a cloth before dyeing over it with indigo. "Indigo is the most common and most powerful natural dye, used all over the world for thousands of years," said Lisa Niedermayr, an Austrian textile artist who curated Unesco's Walking The Indigo Walk exhibit in Paris in 2019. People have been dyeing textiles with indigo for at least 6,000 years. In Germany and Austria, indigo dyeing developed into a distinct tradition that has shaped its language, dress and culture. The European practice of dyeing textiles with blue goes back to the Bronze Age when woad, a locally grown plant, was used to dye clothes in present-day Austria. Traditionally, blue was a worker's colour. But as Austrian artist and researcher Moira Zoitl explains in her book, According To Blueprint, Blaudruck took off in the 17th Century, when the Dutch East India Company started importing indigo powder from India. Indigo dyeing was done in cold water, which kept the dye-resist paste intact. As a result, it produced a deeper, more durable colour than woad. These beautifully patterned textiles soon spread throughout Central Europe and became part of traditional costumes. According to Alfred Atteneder, director of Färbermuseum, a museum dedicated to Blaudruck in the Austrian town of Gutau, because tracht (traditional clothing) was frequently worn in Austria and Germany, "you will find a particularly large number of blueprint costumes here". As craftspeople travelled to learn this new Blaudruck block-printing technique and exchange designs and patterns, a community of practitioners formed. Much of the Blaudruck knowledge practiced today comes from the original family journals documenting these journeys. For Koó, this means working with fashion schools and young designers to revitalise the craft. In the hilly Upper Austria region of Mühlviertel, the family-run Blaudruckerei Wagner workshop has been in business since 1878. Fourth generation Blaudruck craftsmen Maria and Karl Wagner explained that the intricate process of creating indigodyed textiles takes weeks from beginning to end. They first apply the pattern on the fabric with the help of the mint-hued, dye-resistant Papp paste, which is later dyed over with indigo. They then dye the cloth and the dye-resistant parts remain white, revealing locally inspired floral or geometric patterns – stripes were traditionally common in Burgenland, and regional cornflower and hops in Mühlviertel. I watched as Maria's son, Sebastian, applied Papp to a linen cloth using a centuries-old hand-crafted wooden block called Modeln with fine brass pins hammered into the block in the shape of a desired pattern. Only a few people in Europe still know how to produce these blocks. The exact recipe for Papp has always been a closely guarded secret, passed down orally from generation to generation. Each Blaudruck workshop relies on their own mix of ingredients, but the two everyone is comfortable disclosing are gum arabic and clay. Once the patterns have been transferred onto the fabric, it has to air dry for at least four weeks to let the paste set in and harden. Then, it's time to dye. Stretching the linen onto a special frame called a Stern, Sebastian dipped it into a massive vat filled with cold water, indigo and lime. "It's a science, but it's also an art," he said, dunking the linen into the vat multiple times. "Every linen reacts to the oxidisation process, during which the colours take shape differently. There are instruments to measure how strong the dye is, but our parents can do it by smell or touch of their fingers." Finally, the dyed linen is washed in hot water to remove the dye-resist paste, revealing a striking dye-free pattern against the indigo blue. Because of their durability, clothes made with Blaudruck were extremely popular and the craft spread throughout Germany and Austria like wildfire (Mühlviertel alone counted 17 workshops in 1832, according to the Wagners). The patterns never rubbed off. They were also practical: aprons with prints on both sides (a technique called Doppeldrucke) were versatile, with one side used in the kitchen and the other in the field, reducing the need for laundry. This made Blaudruck an easy choice for traditional dirndl dresses. "I grew up with Blaudruck dirndls," said Zoitl. "Blaudruck is an essential identityestablishing technique in this area." Blaudruck was so widespread that it influenced several German-language idioms. The common phrase "Du wirst Dein blaues Wunder erleben" (you will experience your blue miracle) is one example. According Atteneder, this phrase developed in reference to the process of oxidisation. When the initially white textiles come out of the indigo vat, they turn yellow, then green and eventually blue. This is the miracle of indigo: it needs oxygen to turn blue and bond with the fabric. To this day, when Germans and Austrians want you to know you will be surprised by something, they use this phrase. "Blaumachen"(to make blue) and "blauer Montag" (blue Monday) are two other examples traced to Blaudruck that are commonly used when someone is intent on skipping work. Traditionally, Monday was reserved for dyeing. Because textiles had to be dipped into indigo vats multiple times and left to dry in between each dip, artisans had idle hours on Mondays and they sometimes relaxed at a pub. When villagers would ask why the artisans weren't working, the reply was: "I'm making blue today. It's a blue Monday." Atteneberg mentioned another phrase in the vernacular:"Jemanden in die Mangel nehmen" (take someone through the mangle), which means to trouble or pressure someone to do something you want. It refers to one of the last steps in the Blaudruck process, when the dried cloth is passed through a 12-ton granite mangle to smooth out the final fabric. Because of its intense manual-labour process, Blaudruck has eluded industrialisation. By the 1980s, it was nearing extinction due to mass-produced textile alternatives. But in recent decades, a small community of indigo-obsessed artisans across Central Europe have revived this once-common cloth. In 2018, Blaudruck was added to Unesco's Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. Travellers will see it adorning walls, pillowcases and tablecloths in Mühlviertel inns like Zum Edi and Färberwirt. Hotel Guglwald on the Austrian border with Czech Republic has a whole suite dedicated to Blaudruck. Germany's Dillians store exclusively carries Blaudruck products, including wallets, purses and backpacks. The craft is also on display in exhibits in museums across Germany and Austria (Heimat Museum in Scheessel, Germany, even runs a virtual Blaudruck audio tour). On the first Sunday in May, a sea of blue rushes into Gutau. Blaudruck practitioners, linen weavers, artisans and indigo aficionados from across Europe gather in the small Austrian town for the annual International Dyers' Market, featuring blueprint crafts, jewellery and traditional costumes. On the agenda are guided Färbermuseum tours, a live fashion show and an opportunity to connect with representatives from the roughly 25 European Blaudruck makers. Beyond the market, several experimental workshops allow visitors to try their hands at Blaudruck-making. Zeugfärberei in Gutau offers regular dyeing and printing workshops where guests can experiment with Blaudruck designs, screen printing and Shibori, a tie-dye technique from Japan. One of Europe's oldest workshops, Einbecker Blaudruck, which has been in business since 1638 in Lower Saxony, runs guided workshops where guests can see more than 800 different Modeln blocks from various eras, including a few with biblical motifs. "Indigo is like a bridge between different cultures. It's beautiful and traditional, but it's also global," said Gexi Tostmann, whose company, Tostmann, is famous for its dirndls. "Blaudruck used to be a cheap cloth, for common people only. Now it's expensive. Real handmade Blaudruck dress costs more than a silk one." But perhaps Koó puts it best. Hanging a freshly dyed cloth of the most intense deep blue shade to dry out in his workshop's yard, he said, "We are not a museum. This is a living craft."

Source: Just Style

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Global textile industry facing 2023 ‘perfect storm’

The global textile industry is facing a perfect storm scenario as production costs continue to climb and demand declines, a new report by the International Textile Manufacturers Federation (ITMF) has found. The 19th edition of the ITMF Global Textile Industry Survey found that the global business situation in the textile industry has been negative since June 2022 and is still deteriorating. Companies around the world and across all segments face a “perfect storm” scenario, it claims, with high production costs and relatively low demand. At the same time, companies’ expectation for the business climate in six months-time have been improving since November 2022. It is unclear if this growing optimism about the mid-term future is due to a belief that the situation cannot get much worse or anticipation for a well-founded economic normalisation. Order intake has also steadily decreased since November 2021, mostly in line with the trend in the business situation, the report showed. The rate of decline has nevertheless slowed down in March 2023, likely due to weak demand. “Weakening demand” has indeed been rated the major concern in the global textile value chain since July 2022 and its importance has even grown in the last survey. Inflation remains the second major concern worldwide. The expected improvements for the second half of 2023 are supported by a relatively low level of order cancellations and stabilising inventory levels. 53% of respondents to the 19th GTIS recorded no order cancelations during the last four months (down from 58% last January). The phenomenon is stronger in South America and touches spinners and weavers relatively more. 58% of respondents also rated inventory levels as average. The number of companies reporting high inventory levels is greater in Asia and Europe. Among segments, it is the highest for home textile producers. The ITMF released it’s 18th GTIS in February, which revealed that high inflation and rising interest rates are the main current drivers of the global economy, but the core problem of the textile supply chain in 2023 are high inventories at the brand and retail level. With the opening of economies around the world after the Covid crisis, consumers had the opportunity to spend the money they could not during 2020 and in the first half of 2021. Consequently, demand soared, and brands and retailers increased orders to meet this pent-up demand. However, with inflation rising, especially after the Russian invasion of Ukraine in February 2022, demand for consumer goods has now slowed while inventories have remained very high.

Source: Just Style

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ICRA predicts strong demand for Indian road logistics in FY2024

 • India's road logistics sector is expected to see favourable demand in FY2024, with revenue growth pegged at a high single digit. • Downside risks include high inflation, interest rates, further COVID waves, or subpar monsoon. • The aggregate operating profit margins are expected to moderate in FY2024, with revenue growth driven by demand from various segments. ICRA expects the demand scenario for the Indian road logistics sector to remain favourable in fiscal 2024 (FY2024), aided by stable domestic consumption and investment demand, with the industry revenue growth pegged at a high single digit on an elevated base of FY2023. However, downside risks to the estimates remain from any material tapering of demand due to high inflationary and interest rate regime, the emergence of any further COVID waves, or a subpar monsoon impacting the overall economic health, given its strong linkage to economic activity on an aggregate basis. The cash flows and debt coverage metrics are likely to remain comfortable with stable earnings despite debt-funded capital expenditure for vehicle replacement required before the introduction of the scrappage policy, ICRA said in a press release. Accelerated pace of business activities, improving demand from end-user segments, and favourable realisation supported the Indian road logistics sector in FY2023, despite it having faced certain headwinds like general inflation, higher fuel prices, non-availability of drivers, etc. Suprio Banerjee, vice president and sector head – Corporate Ratings, ICRA Limited, said: “ICRA expects the aggregate operating profit margins of the sample to moderate to 12-14 per cent in FY2024, compared to 14.0 per cent in FY2022. The operators’ ability to effect further rate hikes to offset input price increases amid stiff competition remains a key credit monitorable. Revenue growth over the medium term would continue to be driven by demand from varied segments like e-commerce, FMCG, retail, chemicals, pharmaceuticals, and industrial goods coupled with the industry’s paradigm shift towards organised logistics players, post-GST, and e-way bill implementation.” Quarterly revenues for the logistics sector witnessed a marginal contraction of 2 per cent in third quarter (Q3) of FY2023 compared to Q2 FY2023. Following two quarters of stable demand, economic activity was uneven in Q3 FY2023 despite robust demand for contactintensive services and upbeat sentiment during the festive season. We expect the revenues in Q4 FY2023 to be better than Q3, supported by favourable demand and realisations. Though organised players managed rate hikes to a large extent, on an aggregate basis, 9M FY2023 witnessed a moderation in margins to 12.3 per cent over 13.8 per cent in 9M FY2022 on account of increased fuel charges, which were not adequately covered by hire charge increases. Demand from varied segments including e-commerce and retail, coupled with the industry’s paradigm shift towards organised logistics players, post GST and e-way bill implementation would continue to drive revenue growth in the medium-term. Furthermore, multimodal offerings are likely to gain increased acceptance and traction going forward, given that players offering multimodal services had more flexibility. Given these factors and the relatively higher financial flexibility available to large, organised players vis-a-vis their smaller counterparts, there is potential for increased formalisation in the sector going forward. In addition to these, timely and effective implementation of initiatives like the National Logistics Policy in conjunction with PM Gatishakti National Master plan would be key to providing the requisite impetus to the sector, the release added.

Source: Fibre 2 Fashion

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