The Synthetic & Rayon Textiles Export Promotion Council

MARKET WATCH 19 OCTOBER, 2023

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INTERNATIONAL

NATIONAL

Ahmedabad University and ATIRA join hands to support the textile industry

To support the growing composites and technical textiles sector, Ahmedabad University and Ahmedabad Textile Industry’s Research Association (ATIRA) have come together to advance education, research and development, and provide services to the industries in these domains. One of the biggest drivers of this collaboration will be a one-of-its-kind two-year Master of Technology and a PhD Programme in Composites offered at the School of Engineering and Applied Science, Ahmedabad University. Through the technical expertise and facilities of both institutions, the MTech in Composites Programme will provide a strong foundation in advanced mechanics, design, manufacturing, and testing related to composite components and structures. Professor Sunil Kale, Dean, School of Engineering and Applied Science, Ahmedabad University said, “This collaboration will strengthen academics at Ahmedabad University, and with faculty and students participating at ATIRA a robust support system for research, development, and outreach will be created. Ahmedabad University’s incubator, VentureStudio, will facilitate the incubation of composites and technical textiles-based start-ups. The collaboration will also address the need to strengthen workforce skilling for these areas.” Pragnesh Shah, Director, ATIRA, says, “The Government is looking at a significant expansion of the technical textiles industry in the country. They are placing a premium on market research, industry experts, and highquality engineering schools that can manage the requirements of this industry. We need to prepare a skilled workforce to meet this demand. ATIRA to drive innovation as well as support to the industry in adopting these innovative technologies would bring in crucial Industry connect to academic research at Ahmedabad University.”

Source: Apparel resources

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Stop routing foreign currency transactions via US to avoid fees: Consultants

A grouping of consultants and service providers in the country has urged the finance ministry to stop routing foreign currency deals in India via the US banking system to avoid transaction fees and save foreign currency. At present, a transaction fee is levied on transactions in US dollars done from one exchange earners foreign currency account to another within the country, Intercontinental Consultants and Technocrats (ICT) Chairman K K Kapila said in a statement. By routing the transactions through the American banking system, the country is losing substantial money, which is going to the Americans as transaction costs, he said. "To my mind, as long as we are transacting in US Dollars within India, there should be no transaction cost payable to the US," he added.

Source: Economic times

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trueBrowns dives into men’s wear segment

Homegrown urban ethnic lifestyle brand, trueBrowns, has recently ventured into the menswear market. Founder Udita Bansal revealed plans for the men’s segment to contribute 10 per cent of the brand’s revenue this fiscal year, reported ET Retail. “At 30 per cent, the ethnic wear segment is the largest segment of the US $ 6 trillion domestic apparel market in India. 20 per cent of this overall ethnic wear market is the organised sector and is growing on a 30-40 per cent like-to-like growth, and clearly, we want to capture thsi market, which is about Rs. 35,000 to 40,000 crore market,” Bansal said. The brand, having established itself in the women’s wear category, has invested Rs. 1.5 crore in product development and marketing, expecting a 3.5X return on investment during the upcoming festive season. At present, trueBrowns derives 70 per cent of its revenue from Direct-to-Consumer (D2C) sales, 5 per cent from offline channels, and 25 per cent from e-commerce platforms. The brand has recently expanded its offline presence, with 10 Shop-in-Shop (SIS) locations in stores like Shoppers Stop, Iconic, and Nykaa. Looking ahead, trueBrowns plans to open 3-4 more SIS outlets this fiscal year and aims to venture into Multi-Brand Outlets (MBOs) in tier II cities. Presently, international markets account for 25 per cent of the brand’s overall business, with a major share coming from the US (55 per cent) and the UK (10 per cent), while the remaining 45 per cent comes from other countries.

Source: Apparel resources

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50K Surat Weavers May Shut Leaving Migrants Jobless

With the Directorate General of Trade Remedies (DGTR) submitting its final proposal to impose Anti-Dumping Duty (ADD) on Viscose Rayon Filament Yarn (VFY) imported from China PR, industry leaders fear that more than 50,000 weavers could be forced to cease operations, leaving thousands of migrant workers jobless in the city This decision, which is seen as protecting domestic interests, is poised to disrupt the largest manmade fabric (MMF) manufacturing center in the country.Surat’s textile industry, known for its vibrant powerloom sector, is grappling with concerns over the scarcity of high-quality VFY imports from China. The ADD on VFY is expected to cause a significant price hike for domestic manufacturers, particularly in the powerloom sector, with anticipated increases ranging from Rs 40 to Rs 80 per kilogram of VFY. This places substantial strain on an industry that relies heavily on these imports to sustain its operations. Critics argue that the imposition of ADD is unfairly favoring large domestic players, such as Grasim Industries Limited, at the expense of smaller businesses and weavers. Mayur Golwala, a prominent leader in the powerloom sector, highlighted the importance of high-quality VFY for Surat’s textile industry. He explained that over 4,700 hi-tech Airjet machines operating at 1,000 RPM are dependent on these imports, which are not readily available within India. The DGTR’s decision stemmed from an application submitted by the Association of Man-Made Fiber Industry Limited and Grasim Industries Limited, requesting an anti-dumping investigation into VFY imports from China PR. This move has sparked concerns that the closure of powerloom units in Surat may result in substantial losses for banks, as weavers have often borrowed significant sums to install expensive Airjet machines. Defaults on loan repayments could become a pressing issue if weavers are unable to meet their obligations due to business closures. Mayur Golwala expressed his concern about the situation, stating, “There was ADD on VFY from 2006 to 2017. Anti-subsidy duty was proposed in 2019-20 on VFY, which was stalled by the government. Now, the DGTR has taken an arbitrary decision to favor Grasim Industries.” Industry sources anticipate that the ADD on VFY will inflate fabric prices by nearly 25% in the domestic market. VFY fabrics are widely used in high-end garments and enjoy substantial demand both in India and abroad. Importers already grapple with a 5.5% basic customs duty on VFY, and the ADD will only add to their financial burden. According to sources, Surat weavers require approximately 10,000 metric tons of VFY per month, while the domestic yarn capacity stands at around 5,000 metric tons. The ADD’s implementation is expected to create a significant shortage of quality VFY in the domestic market, which could severely impact Surat’s textile industry. The city is bracing for a challenging period ahead as stakeholders await the final decision on the proposed ADD.

Source: The blunt times

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India-UK FTA talks may spill over to November

The India-UK negotiations on a Free Trade Agreement (FTA) are likely to continue for a few more days or even weeks that would push back the actual date of finalising and signing the pact beyond October, according to official sources. The frenetic activity of the last few weeks had raised hopes of an early conclusion of talks even though officially both sides have always refrained from setting any deadlines after the earlier date of Diwali last year was missed due to political developments in the UK. Currently the 13th round of talks on FTA is in progress. The current round started on September 3 and with a small break is still continuing. India’s commerce secretary had visited London in the first week of October to push the talks further. All this activity and arrival of a team from UK to India for continuing the round had kindled hopes that a breakthrough could be around the corner. The Financial Times reported from London on Wednesday quoting British officials “talks are not where we want them to be.” The Indian commerce secretary Sunil Barthwal had said on Friday, “We are negotiating tough issues which remain.” The proposed FTA between the two countries, negotiations for which were started in January of 2022 covers 26 chapters or policy areas. “Majority of chapters are closed or are in advanced stages of negotiations,” he had said. While less contentious issues have been sorted out, protracted negotiations are still on issues of interest to India like greater access for its skilled professionals from sectors like IT, and healthcare in the UK market, besides market access for several goods at nil customs duties. On the other hand, the UK is seeking a significant cut in import duties on goods such as scotch whiskey, automobiles, lamb meat, chocolates and certain confectionary items. Britain is also looking for more opportunities for UK services in Indian markets in segments like telecommunications, legal and financial services (banking and insurance). The London-based FT quoted a person from industry familiar with parts of the agreement as saying that India was offering less access to professional services, including law and accounting, than was found in other modern trade agreements, such as the deal the UK signed with Australia.The UK has demanded national treatment for its services businesses and greater freedom to its professionals to operate in India during negotiations. National treatment means treating foreigners and locals equally with regard to rules and regulations. It also means equal access to opportunities for overseas operators and not doing anything that puts them at a disadvantage. “Some [services] sectors haven’t got anything close to what they might have hoped for, and negotiators have been very clear that they don’t see this deal as a game-changer,” the insider quoted by FT said. The draft deal did not appear to “break new ground” in areas such as legal services, said another person familiar with parts of the deal. However, the professional services sector had always accepted that it would be difficult for the UK to extract significant concessions in particularly sensitive parts of India’s regulatory system. International law firms have historically been heavily restricted from operating in the country. Along with the FTA, both sides are also negotiating the Bilateral Investment Treaty. In this treaty the differences over the dispute resolution mechanism in holding up the conclusion of negotiations.

Source: Financial Express

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INTERNATIONAL

WB forecasts Sri Lankan economy to grow by 1.7pc in 2024

Sri Lanka's economy is expected to grow by 1.7 per cent in 2024 after contracting by 3.8 per cent in 2023, the World Bank said in its twice-a-year update on Tuesday. The World Bank said that the outlook is clouded with uncertainty and that growth prospects depend on progress with debt restructuring and the implementation of critical structural reforms. The World Bank released on Tuesday its latest Sri Lanka Development Update, Mobilizing Tax Revenue for a Better Future, saying that improved revenue mobilisation is critical to Sri Lanka's return to macroeconomic stability. A government-led tax reform package has been under implementation since May 2022, which includes the introduction of new taxes, a wide range of adjustments to the tax rates and bases, and an intention to improve the efficiency of tax collection and increase compliance, it said. "Sri Lanka has carried out critical reforms since the start of the economic crisis. Staying on the course of reforms while managing fiscal risks is crucial to restoring a sustainable growth path," said Faris H. Hadad-Zervos, World Bank country director for Maldives, Nepal, and Sri Lanka. He said current efforts to mobilise tax revenue should be coupled with continued reforms towards transparency of expenditures to build public confidence and to deliver better public services.

Source: The Financial Express

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Loomia Technologies  Joins The Smart Textile Alliance Supplier Network

Loomia Technologies is now a trusted supplier in the Smart Textile Alliance Network. London based Smart Textile Alliance is a not-for-profit organization with three core principles: Promoting Smart Textile innovation by sharing informative articles, interviews, webinars and news across the company blog and Social Media platforms Hosting the Trusted Smart Textile Supplier Directory, a list of companies with a proven track record of supplying high quality Smart Textile products and components. Working with Ambassadors that approve the value and content of the mission to advance the e- textile industry by developing standards and facilitating cross industrial collaboration. Loomia joins an impressive, international roster of suppliers currently in the network. The Smart Textile Alliance Suppliers Directory represents a list of companies with a proven track record of supplying high quality Smart Textile products. “I am so pleased to welcome Loomia Technologies as a new valuable addition to the trusted supplier directory of Smart Textile Alliance. Loomia’s robust and scalable technology addresses the crucial need for seamless manufacturing of smart textiles solutions. The growth of our community proves the value of curated resources specifically tailored for developers in this industry” says Christian Dalsgaard, Chair of Smart Textile Alliance. Loomia’s Founder, Madison Maxey, says this of the partnership: “We’re excited to be part of an alliance formed by E-textile pioneers, Christian Dalsgaard and Mili Tharakan. This new and exciting field grows through collaboration and teamwork, so we are eager to work together to find new opportunities for these materials. We hope that our solution can help add to the growth of this space and benefit engineers and designers who visit the Smart Textile Alliance website.” Smart Textile Alliance recommends those who are looking to build Smart Textile products consult the Suppliers Directory when sourcing these technologies for products. This is an exciting step towards making Loomia’s technology more accessible to companies around the world who are looking to utilize e-textiles.

Source: Textile world

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Spinnova Unveils Sustainable Denim At Kingpins Trade Show

Sustainable textile material company Spinnova presented the first blended denim fabrics made with SPINNOVA® fibre. Using Spinnova’s unique technology, the SPINNOVA® fibre for the denim is produced without harmful chemicals and its CO2 emissions and water consumption are significantly lower compared to conventional cotton production* – presenting a less resource-intensive way of making jeans without compromising the sturdy feel and aesthetics of denim. With a global market of 3.1 billion pairs in 2022, denim jeans could easily be considered a wardrobe staple. Despite this, there has been limited innovation to address the many sustainability challenges of denim production, such as water and resource intensity, heavy chemical use and dyeing, as well as limited recyclability when blended with materials such as polyester and elastane. Sustainable textile material company Spinnova has today presented the first blended denim fabrics made with wood-based SPINNOVA® fibre at the annual Kingpins denim trade show in Amsterdam. The pilot products showcase Spinnova’s technology’s potential to improve the sustainability of denim on multiple fronts. When SPINNOVA® fibre is produced from certified eucalyptus pulp, it has various environmental benefits such as 99% less water consumption and 74% fewer CO2 emissions compared to conventional cotton*. The fibre spinning process uses zero harmful chemicals and thanks to the unique mechanical process, the fibre has a natural hand-feel. Finally, the raw material used to make SPINNOVA® fibre can be traced back to its origin. The denim industry doesn’t compromise on quality, which has been a challenge for denim manufacturers exploring new materials in the past. While most man-made fibres lack the quintessential, sturdy feel of cotton-based denim, early tests have shown that denim produced with a blend of SPINNOVA® and cotton maintains those qualities and meets the aesthetic requirements of denim. “We see a huge opportunity in changing the way that raw materials are sourced and treated for a product as iconic and timeless as denim. It’s exciting to see that we can already address many of the existing sustainability challenges with Spinnova’s technology, while upholding the quality associated with a good pair of jeans. Spinnova works together with partners in the denim segment to optimize the share of SPINNOVA® in the fabric for the best use of the qualities of the fibre,” says Spinnova’s Chief Sustainability Officer Shahriare Mahmood. “We’ve had considerable interest from brands and look forward to expanding cooperation with denim mills and brand partners to launch our first commercial denim products together,” continues Allan Andersen, Chief Sales Officer at Spinnova. Spinnova is expecting to see the first fabrics and consumer products made with SPINNOVA® fibre enter the market within the next 12 months. The first denim pilot products are showcased at Kingpins show in Amsterdam on October 18-19, 2023. *Product carbon footprint study is conducted by a third-party expert following the ISO 14067:2018 standard. The footprint calculation includes CO2-e emissions associated with raw material supply, transportation of raw materials, and manufacturing of the product (cradle-togate). Furthermore, Ecoinvent database is used as the source for global average emissions of conventional cotton. Water consumption is calculated by a lifecycle impact comparison, conducted for Spinnova by a third-party expert.

Source: Textile world

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Textile Rental Company Invests $15M in Jefferson Parish

A fourth-generation, textile rental company plans to invest $15 million in Jefferson Parish, Louisiana — the same place it was founded in 1929. Loop Linen Service anticipates construction beginning in early 2025 for its new 55,000-square-foot commercial laundry facility, which will be at the intersection of U.S. 90 and Louisiana 18. The company will retain its 125 employees during the transition to the new facility. The project also is expected to add 48 indirect jobs to the area, according to Louisiana Economic Development. “For more than 90 years, Loop Linen has grown its family operations from generation to generation, and this expansion ensures the best is yet to come,” said Michael Hecht, President and CEO of Greater New Orleans, Inc. “The innovative new facility makes it easier to deliver quality services for their customers and creates a productive environment for employees to thrive. This investment also strengthens Loop Linen’s historic legacy in Jefferson Parish, where the Burke family has been a leading force in the business community.” Jefferson Parish President Cynthia Lee Sheng said retaining Loop Linen in the community is an honor. and Jefferson Parish have worked in tandem to create and maintain economic conditions that are attractive to our business community,” she said. “Loop Linen’s continued investment in Jefferson Parish is a testament to our strong business climate, accessibility, talent and responsive government. We are proud to support their expansion in our community.” The new facility is set to open 16 months after breaking ground, according to Louisiana Economic Development. Loop Linen offers table linen, garments, and walk-off mats for the food/beverage and hospitality industries, but started as a dry cleaning and laundry business.

Source: Business facilities

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How Lenzing’s Fiber Innovations and Collaborations are Forging Fashion’s Circular Future

Fashion’s contribution to the planet’s waste problem is well documented. And it has only gotten worse as fast fashion speeds up trend cycles, quickening the pace with which garments go from purchase to disposal. Today’s apparel landscape is dominated by a linear model, in which fiber is produced, garments are made, consumers use the items and then dispose of them. Circularity offers a compelling alternative, allowing clothing to be repurposed at end of life through resale, repair, recycling and more. The Ellen MacArthur Foundation estimates that circular business models are currently valued at over $73 billion, and they could be worth $700 billion by 2030. Consumer interest in circularity is also heating up, with 48.1 percent of consumers in a survey from assurance and risk management company DNV saying they buy products with recycled properties.

More from Sourcing Journal In Sustainability, Who Holds the Mantle of Accountability? Twin Dragon Takes Innovations to Europe for Kingpins Amsterdam Marking 30 Years of Denim Excellence: AGI Denim & Jonathan Cheung Debut the Future with TOMORROWLAB Considering the current strength and future prospects for circularity, brands are not embracing this opportunity at a fast enough pace. S&P found that although 44 percent of fashion brands have at least one circular program in place, only 23 percent allocate resources to circular research and development. For the industry to scale circularity, one critical piece of the puzzle is product development. Brands should consider the design of garments—including the recyclability of the inputs and textiles used—so that clothing can be reused at the end of life. Given the importance of materials in closing the loop, specialty fiber producer Lenzing has been a pioneer, taking a leadership role in advancing textile-to-textile recycling capabilities. In 2017, Lenzing became the first company to commercialize a circular cellulosic fiber with the launch of TENCEL™ Lyocell with REFIBRA™ technology1. TENCEL™ branded lyocell fibers produced with REFIBRA™ technology use cotton textile waste as a raw material, in addition to wood. These recycled cotton scraps would have otherwise entered landfills or been incinerated. Now, Lenzing has expanded REFIBRA™ technology to its LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose fibers. This expansion not only creates a new path for textile waste but also facilitates broader industry adoption of circular and recycled content. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ fibers already have a wide footprint, with 500 brand customers including American Eagle Outfitters, Fruit of the Loom and Farm Rio. LENZING™ ECOVERO™ with REFIBRA™ technology will be available worldwide to supply the international fashion industry. “LENZING™ ECOVERO™ with REFIBRA™ technology is well-positioned to meet the surging demand for diverse circular design innovations,” said Florian Heubrandner, executive vice president global textiles business at Lenzing. “This new offering empowers like-minded fabric mills, garment manufacturers and consumer brands to embark on this transformative journey alongside Lenzing—breathing new life into post-consumer textile waste while anchoring circularity at the core of the textile value chain.”

Creating circular change

Expanding REFIBRA™ technology is just the latest Lenzing effort to close the loop in fashion. Recognizing the importance of collaboration, Lenzing Group engages in a number of cross-industry initiatives aimed at creating systemic, circular change, including Accelerating Circularity and the Circular and Sustainable Textile and Clothing (CISUTAC) consortium. Through these collaborations, Lenzing shares its fiber engineering expertise and listens to industry needs to help develop the tools, processes and products necessary to scale circular supply chains. Lenzing’s circular solutions also revolve around new fiber development and the expansion of REFIBRA™ feedstocks. The company joined forces with Swedish pulp producer Södra to create OnceMore®, Södra’s pulp product containing used textiles. Earlier this year, Lenzing and Södra received a 10 million-euro grant ($10.68 million) to fund and grow their OnceMore® project and industrialize circularity. Lenzing also entered a five-year supply agreement with Renewcell for 80,000 to 100,000 tons of its CIRCULOSE® pulp. In the denim world, Lenzing also launched the Fiber Recycling Initiative by TENCEL™, alongside mill partners Artistic Milliners, Canatiba and Textil Santanderina to create denim fabrics using mechanically recycled TENCEL™ fibers. With the usage of pre-consumer lyocell waste at a commercial scale, the initiative redefines the circular future of a sustainable denim industry globally. “At Lenzing, we are ambitious about creating a positive change in the industry towards a circular business model, and we believe it is a collaborative effort, as no one player can do it alone. That is why we seek out partnerships with forward-looking organizations, our peers and other stakeholders to develop solutions that can make circularity a commercial reality,” said Krishna Manda, vice president of corporate sustainability at Lenzing Group. “Circularity and sustainability should go hand-in-hand. Recycling and closed loop systems directly influence climate impact, and we consciously find synergies to advance both circularity and net-zero emissions goals by 2050.”

Source: The yahoo.com

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AI could help break down textile waste

The project has two separate arms – the first will use AI to create enzymes that break down textile and plastic waste, the second will find ways to streamline methods for manufacturing the enzymes required. Protein Evolution claims its technology is the first in the US to use enzymes as a catalyst to produce new polyethylene terephthalate (PET) using polyester textile waste. It says the PET produced is identical to virgin PET and is suitable for both textile and packaging applications. The company is focusing on scaling its commercial capacity and working with a more diverse range of plastic waste. The research is being led by the Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory, in association with the Joint BioEnergy Institute, Advanced Biofuels and the Bioproducts Process Development Unit. The plan to turn textile and plastic waste into a fresh resource was previously revealed in 2022, but this latest development sees the company collaborating with ABF on scaling the technology. The project is one of five decarbonisation schemes recently selected by ABF. It will work with the National Renewable Energy Laboratory and Oak Ridge National Laboratory on the new AI scheme for tackling waste. Protein Evolution’s director of bioprocess development Maren Wehrs says: “Our innovative process uses AI to design novel enzymes to transform various types of polyester waste back into the building blocks of new polyester. These partnerships provide access to cutting-edge research, infrastructure, and a wealth of domain expertise that will help us accelerate sustainable waste management and the global transition to a lower-carbon, circular economy.” Protein Evolution chief technology officer Jay Konieczka adds: “At scale, our technology will divert millions of waste products from landfills and the environment, helping to reduce pollution, conserve natural resources, and contribute to a more sustainable and cleaner future.”

Source: Just-style.com

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