Trade Ministers meeting in Cambodia next week to take forward decisions taken in Bali. Facing pressure to finalise its market opening commitments under the Regional Comprehensive Economic Partnership (RCEP) pact being negotiated between 16 countries, India will hold intense bilateral discussions with China on the sidelines of the ongoing round in Bali to narrow differences on import duty cuts and the implementation period that both seek under the trade pact. “There is a lot of pressure on India to come to an agreement with China on its offer in goods as the round will immediately be followed by a trade ministers meet in Cambodia where RCEP members are keen to come to a resolution on market access. The Indonesian Minister, who is chairing the round, has already said that negotiations will be stretched through the night in Bali if needed,” a goverment official told BusinessLine. RCEP, being negotiated between India, China, the 10-member ASEAN, Japan, South Korea, Australia and New Zealand, can potentially result in the largest free trade bloc in the world covering about 3.5 billion people and 30 per cent of the world’s Gross Domestic Product. Apart from goods, the areas being negotiated include services, investments, intellectual property and government procurement. India has been holding discussions with China since January to come to an understanding on the level of import duty cuts it can promise but differences remain. New Delhi has tried to argue that it will not be possible for it to offer tariff elimination on more that 72 per cent of the traded items as apart from agriculture there were a lot of sensitive industrial goods that needed some protection.
New Delhi’s stance
“China is proving to be a very tough country to negotiate with as it is unwilling to settle for a figure which is substantially lower than what India is ready to offer to the ASEAN countries. This is not possible as India already has a free trade pact with the ASEAN under which it would anyway be eliminating duties on more than 80 per cent items. More over, the Indian industry faces stiffer competition from the Chinese,” the official explained. One option that is being discussed is that of a much longer implementation period for elimination of tariffs for China, but that may not be enough to give confidence to the Indian industry. “Longer implementation periods are fine but time flies, as we are already experiencing in terms of our free trade pacts with South Korea, Japan and the ASEAN. In just about a couple of years, we will have to eliminate duties of all items that we promised,” the official added. India will also have bilaterals with other members of the grouping such as Australia and Japan.
Source: The Hindu Business Line
Three radio stations set up across Tamil Nadu over the last year attract more than 200 callers per day and have quickly become a huge hit among the state's garment workers. The caller broke down in tears as she described how she queued three times to use one of only two toilets provided for 200 garment employees at the spinning mill where she works in India's southern state of Tamil Nadu. Her turn never came, forcing the factory worker to use a corner of the mill where waste cotton is discarded. Humiliated and angry, the worker decided to share her daily ordeal at the mill with a local radio phone-in show. Listeners included labour unions and factory managers and work has now begun to add more toilets at the mill. Three radio stations, which are free and broadcast through mobile phones, have been set up across Tamil Nadu over the last year and now give a voice to the thousands of garment workers whose plight has long been ignored by manufacturers and brands. Operating in the regions of Dindigul, Chennai and Tirupur, they attract more than 200 callers per day and have quickly become a huge hit among the state's garment workers. Callers into the shows discuss harassment, long working hours, poor wages and other working conditions. Many of the factories and mills in Tamil Nadu – the largest hub in India's $40 billion-a-year textile and garment industry – operate informally, with poor regulation, and provide few formal grievance mechanisms for workers, union leaders say. Existing grievance systems, like anonymous complaint boxes and internal committees to deal with sexual harassment, are rarely used by workers who fear they will lose their jobs or distrust management, they add. "What they cannot openly say for fear of losing their jobs, they say here," said Thivyarakhini Sesuraj, president of the all-women Tamilnadu Textile and Common Labour Union (TTCU), which runs the Voice of TTCU station in Dindigul. "These are first hand reports of what goes on inside the factories. And they reflect everyday abuse and hardship."
TUNE IN
Every day on her way to work, Chennai-based garment worker Padma listens to the Voice of Rights station on her mobile phone, pressing it against her ear and straining to hear the callers over the traffic sounds during her daily commute. Padma, who goes by one name, describes the show as an "addiction that empowers" her. Paul Kani, tunes in to the same station each morning, putting her phone on loudspeaker as she cooks for her family before heading to work at her garment factory in Ambattur, a suburb near Chennai. Kani says she can no longer cook unless she has the station playing in the background and likes to get involved. "I love talking about various issues on the show," she told the Thomson Reuters Foundation. "So many people can hear me and I don't feel alone in my struggles." Supported by technology company Gram Vaani, the Voice of Tirupur station hit the airwaves last week - making it the third interactive platform available to the more than one million workers employed in Tamil Nadu. Run in collaboration with garment workers' unions like TTCU, Garment and Fashion Workers Union, and Penn Thozhilalargal Sangam, these channels are helping to track and find solutions to grievances, labour rights campaigners say. "We have had more than 80 cases where the problem has been resolved and impacted hundreds of workers in just one year," said Lamuel Enoch, programme manager at Gram Vaani. As well as spoof shows that give a light-hearted take on the lives of factory workers, Village Talk is a segment that invites listeners to share a short clip of them singing or talking on a work-related or everyday issue. "We use comedy, music and drama to talk about issues ... (and) broadcast updates on union activities, ongoing court cases and policy," Enoch said. "Our latest edition also includes multiple language options to cater to the migrant worker."
CALL FOR HELP
Sesuraj at TTCU, who has campaigned for many years to improve the rights of mill workers, said she is often surprised by the nature of complaints and concerns raised by workers who call the radio shows. "A recent caller said that she was being ridiculed for not fitting into a uniform shirt provided by the management," Sesuraj said. "All the shirts were in medium size but she needed a large, which they refused to give her. She could not even negotiate for that. She wanted help." The silence around sexual harassment is also being broken by the three new radio networks. Despite nationwide awareness campaigns and the introduction of mandatory complaints committees in factories since 2013, no sexual harassment complaints have been made in the Tamil Nadu garment industry, according to a 2018 government report. However, on air, garment workers have found their voice, often mentioning the abuse they are subjected to each day, Sesuraj said. Three cases of sexual harassment described by callers on Voice of TTCU shows are now being formally pursued by the union in Dindigul. "The users are growing, awareness is growing, and we have received complaints in large numbers," said Sujata Mody, president of Garment and Fashion Workers' Union that runs the Voice of Rights broadcast. "But are brands listening to voices of the women ... and is the industry willing to meet their basic needs? Everyone needs to tune in and listen carefully for change to come."
Source: Thomson Reuters Foundation
The 4th India ASEAN Expo and Summit beginning Thursday will bring Indian and ASEAN businesses together to work jointly towards integrating them into regional value chains, thereby promoting mutual trade and investment. The flagship event of Department of Commerce, being organised with industry body FICCI from February 21 to 23, will build upon the success of previous editions. More than 200 exhibitors and 100 buyers from the ASEAN are expected to participate in the expo. There will be buyer-seller meetings to provide business leaders an opportunity to closely interact with their counterparts and consolidate B2B and B2G relations. The exposition will showcase the best initiatives across various sectors of mutual cooperation like infrastructure, manufacturing, engineering, ICT, healthcare, tourism, environment, agriculture, science and technology, finance and banking, logistics and retail. The Association of South-East Asian Nations (ASEAN) comprises Vietnam, Thailand, Singapore, Philippines, Myanmar, Malaysia, Laos, Indonesia, Cambodia, and Brunei. ASEAN is the second largest trading partner of India after China with a total bilateral merchandise trade of 81.33 billion US dollars.
Source: Business Standard
Foreign direct investment (FDI) into India contracted by 7 per cent to USD 33.49 billion during April-December in the current fiscal, according to commerce and industry ministry data. Foreign fund inflows during April-December 2017-18 stood at USD 35.94 billion. The key sectors that received the maximum foreign investment during the nine months of the fiscal include services (USD 5.91 billion), computer software and hardware (USD 4.75 billion), telecommunications (USD 2.29 billion), trading (USD 2.33 billion), chemicals (USD 6.05 billion), and the automobile industry (USD 1.81 billion). Singapore was the largest source of FDI during April-December 2018-19 with USD 12.97 billion inflow, followed by Mauritius (USD 6 billion), the Netherlands (USD 2.95 billion), Japan (USD 2.21 billion), US (USD 2.34 billion), and the UK (USD 1.05 billion). A decline in foreign inflows could put pressure on the country’s balance of payments and may also impact the value of the rupee.
Source: The Hindu Business Line
In recognition of his special contribution towards the textile sector in India, Mr. Mrugank Paranjape, Managing Director & CEO, Multi Commodity Exchange of India Ltd. (MCX) was felicitated by Shri Jayesh Ranjan, Principal Secretary of Industry & Commerce, Government of Telangana and Mr. B. K. Goenka, Chairman, Welspun at the ‘CEO Conclave 2019’— a two-day event organised at Hyderabad on February 19-20, 2019. The felicitation ceremony was marked by the presence of numerous dignitaries including Mr. Mihir Parekh, Director, Telangana Mega Textile Park; TK Sengupta, President, Textile Association of India; R. K Agarwal, Chairman, Telangana Spinners Association and Suresh A. Kotak, Chairman, Kotak & Co. Ltd. among others. The two-day event comprising of panel discussions and presentations aimed at charting out a road map for ‘Reviving confidence in textiles’ through building new capabilities for sustainable and resource efficient growth of the textiles sector. On being felicitated, Mr. Mrugank Paranjape, MD & CEO, MCX said, I’m indeed honoured to receive this recognition by Textile Association of India, however, I believe this award is a direct result of the relentless determination displayed by our workforce while catering to risk management needs of stakeholders in the cotton ecosystem.” “Growth and development of cotton based textile industry has a vital bearing on the overall development of Indian economy. India being one of the fastest growing economies in the world, rising demand by textile sector and hedging needs of physical market players, futures trading in cotton will go a long way by helping the diverse cotton trade and industry stakeholders in managing price risks on their spot and forward transactions. This is crucial for stabilising incomes of corporates, farmers, and the economy at large”, Mr. Paranjape added. Cotton is the basic raw material for the textile industry, which has an overwhelming presence in the economic life of the country. The Indian textile industry is extremely varied, with the hand-spun and hand-woven sector at one end of the spectrum, and the capital intensive, sophisticated mill sector at the other. India being one of the main participants in international cotton trade, the commodity, as well as its user industries, viz. spinners/textiles, are exposed to risks in volatility in cotton prices which arise from both domestic and international factors. If this price risk is not managed, it can quickly get transmitted to the entire value chain of the commodity. Given the annual Indian market size of cotton at Rs. 60,000 crore and an annualized volatility of 16.5% in cotton prices witnessed during 2018, the industry is exposed to a significant level of price risk estimated at more than Rs. 9,900 crore annually. Even if reducing risks may not always improve earnings in the short run, failure to manage risks has direct repercussions on the risk-bearers’ long–term incomes, planning and expansion ability and also helps in development of a long term fibre security. Over the last few years, MCX cotton contract has demonstrated its ability to meet the risk management needs of a wide spectrum of stakeholders in the cotton ecosystem along with transparent discovery of prices. Amongst MCX’s recent initiatives to support thousands of cotton farmers in the Maharashtra state to move up the value chain, the Exchange signed an MoU in June 2018. MCX continues to support cotton farmers by bringing in infrastructure, education, knowledge, market linkages, and credit and finance arrangements, among others. Also, as a part of ‘Cotton Mission’, MCX has empanelled three new warehouses for delivery of cotton in Vidarbha region in addition to its existing accredited warehouses in Maharashtra.
Source: India Education Diary
"It will be rolled out in 50 Villages by providing 10,000 Charkhas, 2000 looms & 100 warping units to Khadi artisans, and would create direct employment for 250 artisans per village." The Union Cabinet Tuesday approved the continuation of Khadi Gramodyog Vikas Yojana until 2019-20, an official statement said. The Cabinet Committee on Economic Affairs (CCEA) has given the approval to continue the existing schemes of MPDA, Khadi Grant, ISEC and Village Industry Grant, all subsumed under 'Khadi and Gramodyog Vikas Yojana' at the total cost of Rs 2,800 crore for the period 2017-18 to 2019-20. It further said the nod has also been given to bring in a new component of 'Rozciar Yukt Gaon' to introduce enterprise-based operation in the Khadi sector and to create employment opportunities for thousands of new artisans in the current and next financial year (2018-19 and 2019-20). Rozgar Yukta Gaon (RYG) aims at introducing an 'Enterprise-led Business Model' in place of 'Subsidy-led model' through a partnership among three stakeholders- KRDP-assisted Khadi Institution, Artisans and Business Partner. "It will be rolled out in 50 Villages by providing 10,000 Charkhas, 2000 looms & 100 warping units to Khadi artisans, and would create direct employment for 250 artisans per village," the release said. The total capital investment per village is estimated at Rs 72 Lakh as the subsidy and Rs 1.64 crore in terms of working capital from the business partner. Under the village industry verticals, special focus would be on agro-based and food processing (honey, palmgur etc), handmade paper and leather, pottery and wellness and cosmetics sectors through product innovation, design development and product diversification. "For this initiative, advanced skill development programmes shall be conducted through existing Centres of Excellence such as CGCRI, CFTRI, IIFPT, CBRTI, KNHPI, IPRITI etc," the release added. As a part of rationalisation exercise, it said that eight different schemes of Khadi and Village Industries have now been merged under two umbrella heads -- 'Khadi Vikas Yojana' and 'Gramodyog Vikas Yojana'.
Source: Business Today
The Crafts Council of India (CCI) will conduct ‘Dye Natural’, an exhibition celebrating the colours of nature, at Egmore here from February 21 to 23. It will feature six well-known brands, all of which use only natural dyes. “We have held natural dye exhibitions in the city twice before, the last one was held in 2017,” says Jayasri Samyukta Iyer, executive committee member, The Crafts Council of India (CCI) CCI has been at the forefront of the Natural Dye Revival movement and was involved in the organisation of the Unesco sponsored International Natural Dye Symposium held in Hyderabad in 2006. It held the Natural Dye Bazaar in Chennai in 2006. “We have been promoting natural dyes since our organisation was established in 1964. You cannot separate natural dyes from crafts and textiles,” says Iyer. “Some time ago, with synthetic dyes getting popular, there was a decline in the use of natural dyes, but now more and more people are going back to them.” That’s because an increasing number of people are getting back to their roots and are mindful about the way they live, the way they cook and even the clothes they wear. “Natural dyes are environmentally friendly and are non-toxic and friendly to the skin,” says Iyer. People are now getting more conscious about the need to promote traditional arts and crafts, and that in turn has given a boost to the revival of natural dyes, according to her. ‘Dye Natural’ will feature six well-known brands -- Dastkar Andhra, Dayalal Kudecha, MG Gramodyog Sewa Sansthan, Brij Ballabh, Abdul Rauf Khatri and Anuradha Kuli. The saris, stoles, fabrics and dupattas created by each artisan will carry the freshness of natural dyes and imprints of the master artisan’s work. Dayalal Kudecha, for instance, is known for his unique Bhujodi weaves, Abdul Rauf Khatri for the wondrous double-sided Ajrakh block prints, Dastkar Andhra will showcase a soft palette of natural dye shades, MG Gramodyog Sewa Sansthan will have revival muslins and khadis, Anuradha Kuli’s wondrous weaves are from the North-East and Brij Ballabh will have Sanganeris. What’s more, each textile product has a story to tell of the great and diverse natural dye tradition of India.
Source: Times of India
The Commerce and Industry Ministry on Wednesday said it has started the exercise to rank states and union territories for 2019, based on initiatives taken for start-ups. The exercise aims to evaluate measures taken by states/ UTs to boot the start-up ecosystem during the period from May 1, 2018 to June 30, 2019, the Ministry said. “The ranking framework comprises seven pillars and 30 action points,” it said in a statement. The pillars will assess the efforts of states/ UTs across institutional support, simplifying regulations, easing public procurement, incubation, seed funding, venture funding and awareness and outreach-related activities. “The start-up ranking framework aims to rank states/ UTs in order to establish a robust ecosystem to support start-ups. The framework also encourages states and UTs to identify, learn and replicate good practices from each other,” it added. The Department for Promotion of Industry and Internal Trade (DPIIT), under the Ministry, has prepared the framework after several rounds of consultations. It said the framework has evolved distinctly as compared to last year, with major emphasis on collecting feedback from start-ups and other important stakeholders. “As part of the 2019 exercise, DPIIT will recognise innovative start-up programmes and initiatives from state/UT governments,” it said. Till date, 25 states and UTs have launched dedicated start-up policies to incentivise budding entrepreneurs in their jurisdiction. “The start-up ranking 2019 is expected to take forward the start-up ecosystem in the country and give an impetus to the vision of India becoming a start-up nation,” it said. In 2018, Gujarat emerged as the best performer in developing the start-up ecosystem for budding entrepreneurs.
Source: The Hindu Business Line
|
Item |
Price |
Unit |
Fluctuation |
Date |
|
PSF |
1310.63 |
USD/Ton |
-0.22% |
2/20/2019 |
|
VSF |
1987.37 |
USD/Ton |
-0.07% |
2/20/2019 |
|
ASF |
2380.41 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
Polyester POY |
1251.53 |
USD/Ton |
-0.12% |
2/20/2019 |
|
Nylon FDY |
2807.44 |
USD/Ton |
0.53% |
2/20/2019 |
|
40D Spandex |
4728.32 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
Nylon POY |
5585.33 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
Acrylic Top 3D |
1536.70 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
Polyester FDY |
2644.90 |
USD/Ton |
1.13% |
2/20/2019 |
|
Nylon DTY |
2526.70 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
Viscose Long Filament |
1462.82 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
Polyester DTY |
3073.41 |
USD/Ton |
0.48% |
2/20/2019 |
|
30S Spun Rayon Yarn |
2718.78 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
32S Polyester Yarn |
2002.15 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
45S T/C Yarn |
2851.77 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
40S Rayon Yarn |
3014.30 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
T/R Yarn 65/35 32S |
2511.92 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
45S Polyester Yarn |
2142.52 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
T/C Yarn 65/35 32S |
2526.70 |
USD/Ton |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
10S Denim Fabric |
1.36 |
USD/Meter |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
32S Twill Fabric |
0.83 |
USD/Meter |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
40S Combed Poplin |
1.11 |
USD/Meter |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
30S Rayon Fabric |
0.65 |
USD/Meter |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
|
45S T/C Fabric |
0.70 |
USD/Meter |
0% |
2/20/2019 |
Source: Global Textiles
Note: The above prices are Chinese Price (1 CNY = 0.14776 USD dtd. 20/02/2019). The prices given above are as quoted from Global Textiles.com. SRTEPC is not responsible for the correctness of the same.
Textile and apparel manufacturing continue to thrive in the United States, often in specialized niches. This article examines four companies: a California knit fabric specialist, a young entrepreneurial jeans maker in South Carolina, a family-run narrow fabric manufacturer in Rhode Island and a well-known sock maker in North Carolina.
North East Knitting
Pawtucket, R.I., home to historic Slater’s Mill, the first water-powered spinning mill in the United States, is known as the birthplace of the U.S. textile industry. Once a thriving textile center, there are just a handful of companies left in the city, but one of them happens to be a successful manufacturer with an inspirational story behind its founding. North East Knitting, (NEK) a narrow fabrics manufacturer, specializing in elastics and webbing, serves a variety of markets, including apparel, safety, sporting goods, medical and automotives. Its founding is a story of hard work, perseverance, determination, and a testament to the critical role immigrants have played in the success of U.S. manufacturing. Rosalie DaRosa, a native of the Cape Verde Islands, was among several founders of the company in 1986. She came to Pawtucket with her father when she was 18. Speaking very little English, she began working with her father at a company called International Stretch, a producer of elastic textiles. North East Knitting has grown with its customers. About 15 years ago, following a downturn in business, the company added weaving to its capabilities, allowing it to broaden its customer base. Offering braiding, knitting and weaving services, the company became a one-stop shop for its customers. During this period of growth, Rosalie’s three sons — Eric, Michael and Alex — joined the company and now manage its operations. “I’ve always liked textiles,” she says. “I’ve been here for 50 years and I was very fortunate to have three young boys. They got a great education and went to work for other companies until I told them I needed them. They go to trade shows and see what demand is there and what markets to try to get in to. They have taken this company to another level. What I do is support them and make sure the factory goes smooth and we hire the right people. That’s the role I play now.”
Billiam Jeans
Greenville, S.C., is home boutique jeans maker Billiam Jeans, the brainchild of 30-year-old entrepreneur, Bill Mitchell, who as a senior at Clemson University back in 2009 discovered he had a penchant for making tailored clothing. His Greenville shop doubles as Billiam’s factory, where Mitchell and his lone employee laboriously churn out top quality jeans at the rate of about one pair per hour. In addition to his retail shop, Mitchell sells Billiam jeans online and to wholesalers serving boutique shops mostly in the Southeast. Billiam has also gone international with eight stores in the U.K. carrying the jeans, and stores in South Korea and Japan selling them as well. At $250 a pair, Billiam’s jeans aren’t for everyone. Mitchell describes his clientele as ranging from consumers who like locally made products and don’t mind paying extra to well-heeled customers with the means to buy the most expensive designer jeans who instead choose to pay for the experience of buying tailored jeans. Initially, Mitchell purchased denim from Liberty Denim in South Carolina, which closed in 2012. From that point until the end of December 2017, Mitchell sourced his denim from Greensboro-based Cone Mills’ White Oak plant, the only remaining facility producing selvage denim in the United States, weaving it on vintage 1940s Draper looms. However, Cone’s owner, International Textile Group, decided to close the venerable and world-famous plant at the end of 2017, cutting off the supply to Billiam and other boutique jeans makers around the United States. Much of White Oak’s appeal derived from the way the denim was crafted, as well as from being made in the United States. Upon learning the news of the plant’s closing, Mitchell scrambled to maintain his supply line by buying as much of White Oak’s inventory as he could. “I took about every penny I had in the bank and bought as much denim as I could,” Mitchell says. “The plan was to stock up. We now have material to last us for the next three or four years, and we are as full as we could possibly be.” Mitchell laments White Oak’s closing, saying that in addition to putting niche jeans makers in a sourcing bind, it also may stifle the next generation of young entrepreneurs who want to start jeans companies. Long-range, he says, Billiam may explore sourcing denim from Trion, GA-based Mount Vernon, which now operates the last remaining U.S. denim mill. In the meantime, Mitchell says he plans to get into the cut-and-sew of t-shirts and sweats.
SAS
Sean Sassounian, CEO and founder of Vernon, Calif.-based SAS Textiles, a versatile circular knitter of contemporary and performance fabrics, says his company has persevered despite cheap imports by offering top quality and quick turnarounds, yet in other areas there have been many changes since he founded the company more than 25 years ago, among them smaller programs by customers and a move to online sales.
Sassounian founded SAS Textiles in 1993 while studying business at the University of Southern California. He had previously helped his father sell imported yarns from Brazil. He partnered with a knitter when he founded the company because, as he says, “I had no idea what knitting was all about.” SAS works with “select” dye houses in the area for dyeing and finishing. At one time, the company had a cut-and-sew partner in Mexico, but SAS is currently only offering fabrics, although Sassounian hopes to move back into cut-and-sew sometime in the future. SAS has a product development team that focuses on innovation and an extensive library of more than 20 years of styles that Sassounian says inevitably come back into vogue. In addition to rising labor costs, which are coming about in part due to California’s new law that will see the hourly minimum wage rise gradually to $15 by Jan. 1, 2021, textile companies are increasingly finding it difficult to recruit skilled labor. SAS Textiles has moved into a more performance-oriented market in recent years as a way to diversify its product mix. The company works with a lot of the better contemporary brands in the activewear market. Quality control is essential, particularly in these markets, and SAS puts a lot of effort in this area. Although SAS’ sales increased in 2018, market conditions continue to be tough, says Sassounian. While today SAS has more customers, orders are smaller, and tariffs on yarn made in China is causing SAS to increase fabric prices. “We are cautiously optimistic about 2019,” Sassounian says. “We are planning on going beyond only offering fabric and offering full-package garments. We are in the process of setting this up and will be offering this service shortly.”
Thorlo
Padded-sock innovator Jim Throneburg credits his company’s success to his father’s simple philosophy of being the best at anything you do. “He said there will always be a place in the marketplace for the best,” recalls Throneburg, founder of Statesville, N.C.-based Thorlo. “We’ve always tried to be different and serve consumer needs rather than retailer needs as our first priority.” Throneburg and his dad were contract knitters of sock, in the 1950s, ‘60s and ‘70s, before he founded Thorlo in 1980. With Thorlo, Throneburg has carried forward the same philosophy of being the best in foot protection. To achieve that goal, the company has built its business around listening to consumers. Several years ago, Thorlo began soliciting online customer product reviews and the management team reads these reviews every day. “Ninety-eight percent of them have been positive,” Throneburg says. “Many of them tell us we have helped them with some foot problem, or have helped them to play tennis as much as they want to without blistering.” Ask Throneburg about the sock business, and he will tell you that Thorlo is in the foot protection business. He notes that a lot of competitors have incorporated some of his company’s innovations, but that comes with being a pioneer. “Some [sock manufacturers] have learned from us and are doing a better marketing job,” Thornburg says. “But that’s not the point. We changed the way the industry views itself when we developed our activity-specific product line. We really don’t consider ourselves to be in the sock business. We’re in the foot protection business. I don’t follow the sock industry stats as much as I used to.” (John McCurry is a Colorado-based Apparel contributing writer with many years of experience covering the apparel and textile industries.)
Source : Apparel Magazine
The Prime Minister approved in principle, the draft Strategic Economic Framework between Pakistan and Turkey at a meeting held here. The Prime Minister directed for early finalization of the framework aiming at transforming the bilateral relations between the two countries into a broader growing strategic economic relationship. He directed relevant ministries to vigorously pursue this framework and put in place strong institutional arrangements for its implementation, once finalized. The meeting was attended by relevant federal ministers and secretaries including Finance, Information and Broadcasting, IPC, Health, Commerce, Energy, Chairman BOI and others. Secretary EAD gave a detailed briefing on the contents and contours of the proposed framework. It was informed that during the Prime Minister's visit to Turkey in the first week of January this year, the top leadership of the two sides had agreed to transform the bilateral relationship into a long-term strategic trade, investment and economic relationship based on the principles of reciprocity and fairness. On his return from Turkey, the Prime Minister constituted a ten member ministerial committee headed by the Finance Minister, Asad Umar to finalize the proposed framework. Subsequently, two meetings of this Ministerial Committee were chaired by the Finance Minister and ideas and proposals were received from the 16 relevant ministries of the federal government. After due consideration and examination, proposals were identified, evaluated and incorporated into a wholesome draft strategic economic framework. The Finance Minister briefed the meeting that it is an integrated framework that has been built keeping in view the best interest of Pakistan, capitalizing on mutual complementarities and key advantages of the two economies, the framework so finalized will serve as the overarching strategic policy framework integrating all facets of existing bilateral economic cooperation into a single platform. The Economic Framework seeks to build a strategic economic framework with brotherly country Turkey in a globally evolving geo strategic environment and through this instrument tangible measurable results will be pursued. It will encompass broader areas of bilateral cooperation like trade, textiles, investment, industries and production, energy, economy/banking and finance, aviation, agriculture, social sectors and tourism. Pakistan through this framework is not looking for aid but trade, investment and technology for enhancing industrial productivity of its economy. There are strong mutual complementarities between the two economies. While on one hand Pakistan can benefit from modern industrial base and technological advancement specifically in auto sector, steel sector, value added textiles and tourism on the other hand Pakistan can meet Turkish economy's requirements such as agricultural products, raw materials, textile materials etc. The joint ventures between Turkey and Pakistan in multiple sectors including value added textile and leather industry can produce quality products for export to European Union and East Asian markets. After approval by the Prime Minister in principle, the government of Pakistan is now sharing this draft framework with the Turkish side for their review and consideration before the same is finalized between the two countries in the coming weeks.
Source: The Nation
Biotech scientists say struggles in agriculture persist, because no international company markets seeds of the four major crops cotton, wheat, rice and sugarcane in Pakistan, and these crops are almost exclusively served by local seed businesses. “In fact, the only success story in row crops has been that of maize, almost exclusively through efforts of leading multinational companies that have invested in research, technology and farmer education,” a statement quoting experts said. Genetically Modified Organism (GMOs) was currently one of the most hotly debated topics in Pakistan and around the world as well. This was despite GM crops being in the market for over two decades with over 17 million farmers growing biotech crops on almost 190 million hectares in 24 countries. Currently, over 97 percent of the cotton grown in Pakistan was first-generation genetically modified pest-resistant plant cotton (also known as BT cotton). Since the seeds were introduced through illicit means and without proper stewardship, they lost their efficacy after a few years, they reminded.
Source: The International News
Setting up of a Chinese textile city in Egypt will severely harm the debt-ridden domestic apparel manufacturing industry that operates with antiquated equipment and machinery, feel domestic producers and textile industry experts. The Mankai Textile Industrial Park will have 592 factories, making it one of the largest specialised industrial zones. Pilot operations of the Chinese industrial city’s first-phase factories will start in May, a report in an Egyptian newspaper quoted minister of commerce and industry Amr Nassar as saying. All phases of the project in Sadat City, 90 km north of Cairo, are expected to be completed within four years. The value of the total annual production of the project, once it becomes fully operational, will be about $9 billion. Mufrih el-Beltagy, president of Misr Ameriya Spinning & Weaving Company, said new textile and clothing city spells the end of the Egyptian textile industry, especially because the project’s output is meant for the domestic market instead of export. The Egyptian ministry of business sector allocated $1.5 billion to update state-owned spinning and weaving companies but the process has been reportedly difficult. Of the 32 companies of the state-run Cotton & Textile Industries Holding Company, 22 are operating at losses totalling nearly $152 million. Egypt’s domestic textile industry is facing economic reform measures, especially the lifting of energy subsidies, implemented by the government more than two years ago. The industry had grown with governmental support and protection since its inception. The Chinese units will rely on digital automation, greatly reducing labour costs and making matters more complicated for domestic manufacturers. In Egyptian textile factories, and especially the state-owned ones, about 74 per cent of revenues go to wages, compared to 13 per cent in global companies. Mohamed el-Morshedi, head of the Textile Industries Chamber of the Federation of Egyptian Industries, said the new park should focus on foreign markets. (DS)
Source: Fibre2fashion
The export figures in December 2018 saw Sri Lanka’s ready-made garments industry for the first time crossing the $ 5 billion mark for the first time in history. It is the first export industry that has achieved this number in Sri Lanka since the country was opened as a free economy in 1977. The apparel sector has been and is a dynamic contributor to Sri Lanka’s economy for the last four decades and has helped the country to grow towards middle-income status nation and reduce poverty in many parts of the island. The readymade garments industry of Sri Lanka is the primary export foreign exchange earner, accounting for over 40% of the total merchandise exports and nearly 50% of industrial products exports. This industry competes entirely in the international market place and has earned a reputation as a quality destination for sourcing among global buyers. Today Sri Lankan apparel manufacturers and suppliers are reputed worldwide for producing top quality ethical fashion apparel products and are trusted by the iconic global fashion brands as a reliable destination to source and secure a credible supply chain. Value to the economy underestimated or not understood Some have been critical or negative of the industry without knowing the facts. Others are unaware that the net export foreign exchange income to the country by the apparel industry exceed the joint earnings of tea, rubber, coconut and few other products combined. Today’s apparel sector value addition in some products is well over 50% to 60%, which was around 20% to 30% at the outset. In addition to this fact, the total trade value (exports and imports) accounts for over $ 7.5 billion, making the sector contribution of more than 20% to the trading sector GDP. Apart from this, they have created a massive second layer of industries and service providers who create wealth and employment in the domestic market which is not spoken of or recognised by many. Impact to the country and economy is beyond exports In addition to the foreign exchange earned through exports, the employment directly created would be more than 250,000. Many factories are located in rural or underdeveloped regions of the country as well as in the northern and eastern provinces where new factories were put up after the end of the conflict. This has created economic centres and ecosystems which has over the years helped the country to move into a middle-income nation and help reduce poverty in many districts. The industry has been innovative, believes in competition and quality and partners the Government in policymaking rather than asking for assistance and handouts to sustain the business growth over the decades. The achievement of $ 5 billion in export turnover was probably delayed due to the loss of GSP+ to Europe in 2011. Many opportunities were lost, and new challenges were faced by the industry as it had to compete under difficult circumstances including an overvalued currency at on time. If not, the ready-made garment industry would have been around $ 8 billion by now (if one observes the growth of the other nations who competes and had better market access to EU from 2011-2016). With exports, many other sectors, such as suppliers, transport, logistics, shipping, insurance, engineering, technology and many other services and products such as packaging are value adding to the domestic economy creating an extra million jobs indirectly which is not noticed. Economic value of imports for export processing? There is a myth or a belief that exports must be near 100% domestic value addition. Many don’t understand that value chains can be created by two-way or multi-way trade. Others turn a blind eye to imports for export processing without understanding its economic value to the nation. Some describe it as a burden on the economy as foreign exchange flows outwards. What they don’t realise is that in today’s global economy value addition can take place in different countries and that needs two-way trade of raw material, semi-finished goods, intermediaries and final products. Clear and simple examples are available from the high-tech industry such as airplanes and mobile phones which are well connected to the global supply chain at multiple points where groups of nations benefit out of two-way trading. It is a smart charter of an industrialist’s ability to plug into the global supply where it matters with input and knowledge at an advantage point. It is the way forward for a small island such as Sri Lanka which can follow successful models such as Dubai and Singapore hubs have done to evolve as major global export hubs. In such locations, two-way trade has created thousands of jobs and wealth, making them first world economies The import turnover of $ 2.5 billion of the readymade garment industry of Sri Lanka has helped it to be part of the global value chain although it does not command the luxury of raw materials. However, the multiplier effect to the economy is massive to say the least as a middle-income small economy. The greatest beneficiaries of the apparel industry imports for export processing has been the local service providers. The derived demand for services such as ports, clearing agents, shipping companies, freight and logistics provides, warehouse operators, transporters, banks and insurance has created a large domestic ecosystem that is not at all talked of when the apparel industry is discussed in forums. Sadly, many only try to see and project the net revenue which incidentally also has been the number one among the export basket of Sri Lanka. There are many more opportunities to Sri Lanka to do other products by using the readymade garment industry model as an example. This why we have been promoting the commercial hub concept again which was designed by the Joint Apparel Association Forum (JAAF) many years back along with the Government. Sri Lankan exporters must now seek new partnerships and value chains with internationalisation of the production base to help widen the export base to support national needs and requirements; in fact at the National Export Strategy (NES) sectors such has boat building were recommended to look outwards to create new value chains to its business model as an Indian ocean hub. Many have still failed to understand the success of JAAF and its model. If Sri Lanka wants to leap into a new era of export expansion, look at what our own entrepreneurs have done in the readymade garment industry where the competition is at the highest level externally. I have been honoured to work with this industry, but as an independent multi-industry person involved in supporting exports, I would like to congratulate JAAF and its members for what they have achieved and contributed to the nation over the past four decades. (The writer is the CEO of the Shippers’ Academy Colombo and Chairman of the Logistics Advisory Committee of the Export Development Board, a former Secretary General of JAAF and currently the Director General of the Sri Lanka Association of Manufacturers and Exporters Rubber Products.)
Source: The Daily FT
AATCC research committee RA111, electronically-integrated textiles, recently approved its first evaluation procedure. AATCC EP13, evaluation procedure for electrical resistance of electronically-integrated textiles, is one of the very first international standards for e-textiles. AATCC is the leading not-for-profit association serving textile professionals. The evaluation procedure provides detailed instructions for measuring resistance of e-textiles, a key indicator of functionality. It also includes guidance and calculations for determining change in resistance after laundering, stretch, or other treatment, according to AATCC. AATCC EP13 is currently available for purchase from the AATCC website as a downloadable PDF. It will be included in the 2019 AATCC technical manual mid-year supplement published this summer. AATCC standards are developed, approved, and periodically reviewed by a global team of volunteer subject matter experts. All stakeholders are welcome to participate in this consensus-based process. The standards are recognised and used around the world. Work on AATCC EP13 began in 2015 when manufacturers approached AATCC about developing standardised test methods to allow everyone, large and small companies alike, to objectively evaluate and sell e-textile products. More than 100 people expressed interest in the subject and RA111, electronically integrated textiles test methods, officially became an AATCC research committee in March 2016. The group agreed that the first procedure should be as simple and accessible as possible—no expensive or complicated equipment. The procedure can be performed on a variety of materials, including those with woven, knitted, printed, or stitched conductive elements. AATCC EP13 is suitable for component fabrics or complete e-textile products. It is designed to be performed in standard atmospheric conditions for textile testing and the apparatus can be purchased inexpensively from a variety of sources. In addition to being simple to perform, the procedure had to be repeatable. The committee researched and discussed the best ways to control variables such as distance, pressure, and contact area. An inter-laboratory study was performed to determine the precision of AATCC EP13. RA111 is currently balloting two additional standards. One is a test method for laundering e-textiles and the other is a laboratory procedure for exposing e-textiles to a variety of conditions. The standard is based on existing test methods for perspiration, UV radiation, etc., with specific instructions for preparing e-textile specimens to test the change in electrical resistance. A task group is already working on a stretch test for e-textiles. Other projects include ongoing revision of the existing standards to reflect new knowledge and new technology.
Source: Fibre2Fashion
A panel of British parliament members (MPs) cutting across party lines recently suggested charging fashion producers a penny per garment to fund better clothing collection and recycling to end throwaway fashion. The Environmental Audit Committee urged ministers to make retailers take responsibility for the waste they generate and reward firms taking positive steps. In a report, the committee recommended ‘clear economic incentives’ to encourage retailers for the same and tax reforms to reward companies that design products with lower environmental impact and penalise those that do not. They proposed extending the tax on virgin plastics, due to be effective in 2022, to synthetic textile products to encourage the use of recycled fibres. They also recommended exploring hiring, swapping or subscription services for apparel. An Extended Producer Responsibility scheme for textiles could raise £35 million for better clothing collection and sorting, which in turn could create new ‘green’ jobs, it said. Consumption of new clothing in the United Kingdom—at 26.7 kg per person—is estimated to be higher than any other European country. The MPs also urged the government to change the law to require firms to perform due diligence checks across their supply chains to ensure their products are made without child or forced labour. The British Retail Consortium welcomed the released of the report, saying the committee has agreed with its calls for better government enforcement of labour rights in factories to support the work retailers are doing on this and to strengthen the Modern Slavery Act. (DS)
Source: Fibre2fashion
